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Longstaff axle/freewheels lubrication after long storage

 
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hujev



Joined: 18 Feb 2016
Posts: 83
Location: The Lake Superior country, maybe Michigan, Americaland

PostPosted: Fri Mar 17, 2017 3:22 pm    Post subject: Longstaff axle/freewheels lubrication after long storage  Reply with quote

I see this has been covered elsewhere here to a greater degree of service, but wondering about lubrication of my new used Longstaff axles & freewheels without full disassembly if a good idea.

I've dis/re-assembled everything else, regreased everything but the axles, etc. but too wimpy to want to take the axles out and all that for now if I don't have to!

Recall I just bought this, a 1993, very clean and very lightly used, and probably ridden little or not at all since 1994. It's got the Maillard freewheels (6 attached cogs, so based on the 7sp freewheels).

The axles turn a little 'slow', either because of freewheels, axles, or both. When I backpedal say 1/4 rotation it takes a couple seconds for the freewheel to take up the chain slack.

I believe all's adjusted fine. Totally smooth bearings; definitely no rust or grinding (on all other bearings; BB, headset, front hub, etc. the grease was a little old but still 'working' fine).

I have seen the disassembly instructions, but Terry (the trike's first owner) thought Longstaff had sent him lubrication instructions but he couldn't find them (he said he never reached the recommended mileage to need them - I'd say the trike has a few hundred kms at most on it). I emailed LS but haven't heard back yet.

So, based on how it feels, on a bike I'd just spray some penetrating oil in the relevant areas (axle bearings, freewheels), and that'd do it.

So when I get this outside I'll try that unless other advice. And the grease port, should I take that off and spray penetrating oil in there then add some oil or grease? What weight?

And other than tyres still waiting for the feller's all shined up and ready to go, so almost there! I even found my TA transfers (temporarily lost in move), and added one to the DT!
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geoff booker



Joined: 23 Mar 2012
Posts: 603
Location: Oxford

PostPosted: Fri Mar 17, 2017 5:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I suspect it is just lack of use that is causing the slight reluctance to free wheel. It will be the 2 wheel drive unit that is causing the trouble not the drive shafts. I don't know the lubrication details for them so can't help you with that. I would think though that you should use proper oil and not penetrating oil or wd40 etc.
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tatanab



Joined: 29 Mar 2012
Posts: 731

PostPosted: Fri Mar 17, 2017 5:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Agreed mainly lack of use.  The axle bearings are all journal bearings with plastic shields, so nothing much is going to get in there anyway.  The two wheel drive unit uses Maillard freewheel bodies.  On the left side you can see the back of the one that is screwed onto the aluminium drive boss, so you can dribble a bit of oil down there.  The right side is harder to see because of the overhanging sprockets, but it might be open to oil like the left hand side, or if the freewheel body is of a more recent type you will see a red seal.  So you can try dribbling a bit of oil at it.

Do not bother with undoing the screw on the chromed case of the unit.  Putting oil in there will do nothing to lubricate the other bearings because the oil will just sit in the chromed shell and/or seep out.
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hujev



Joined: 18 Feb 2016
Posts: 83
Location: The Lake Superior country, maybe Michigan, Americaland

PostPosted: Fri Mar 17, 2017 10:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My preferred sequence would be petroleum-based penetrating oil (to loosen up dry oil/grease), followed by something like Phil Wood tenacious oil to seep back in.

Maybe I'll do that - but does the chromed connector/cover between the two freewheels with the grease port also allow access to one end of that second, un-cogged freewheel? (dang, I need an animated illustration of how that whole bit works even though it ought to be obvious).

Well, anyway, so long as there's nothing involved that I don't understand other than standard (if a little novice in configuration) freewheels and cartridge bearings.

I'm just too lazy to go too far in (another reason: I have almost all velo-tools *except cog chain-wrenches!), esp. since the whole kit's in such good shape (you all'l see, when I get the photography done).

I think I did hit it lucky with this one, for sure!
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geoff booker



Joined: 23 Mar 2012
Posts: 603
Location: Oxford

PostPosted: Fri Mar 17, 2017 10:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes it sounds like you have a good trike, and when you get the freewheels running free it should do you for a long time.
The double freewheel unit can't easily be dismantled. The grey plastic sleeve next to the chrome housing has to be cut off. Then it can be split. But you have then to replace the plastic band with a new one. That would have to be made as I doubt Longstaff will have any for sale.
You can remove and replace the sprockets though, if you can find any. But that sounds like it will be a long way off.  positive
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tatanab



Joined: 29 Mar 2012
Posts: 731

PostPosted: Sat Mar 18, 2017 9:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

hujev wrote:
does the chromed connector/cover between the two freewheels with the grease port also allow access to one end of that second, un-cogged freewheel?
If you can figure out a way of separating the chromed connector then you will have access to both sides of the freewheels.  Many have tried (non destructive) and failed without the knowledge and tooling of Longstaff.  Don't even try.  As I wrote, it is no good putting oil through the port in the cover either, it will not get into the freewheel bodies.

For maintenance purpose, the first thing you need to make is a long (12 inches or more) allen key (hex key) to fit the screw that is right down inside the unit.  You can see this on the Longstaff exploded diagram and stripping instructions for the axle.
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geoff booker



Joined: 23 Mar 2012
Posts: 603
Location: Oxford

PostPosted: Sat Mar 18, 2017 8:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Long allen key size is 5mm af.


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